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Contemporary and classic: Saga of India’s very own “jadau’ jewellery”

Indian in soul yet extremely global in appeal, each of jewelelry designer Falguni Mehta’s creations is rooted in tradition

“Jewellery is intricately woven into our lives, our special moments, as an expression of our unique style and personality,” says Mumbai-based jewellery designer Falguni Zaveri Mehta, famed for her bespoke contemporary jadau renditions in textured gold, uncut diamonds and Basra pearls.

Indian in soul yet extremely global in appeal, each of jewellery designer Falguni Mehta’s creations is rooted in tradition, yet has an air of modernity.

“As jadau jewellery is unique to India, the base techniques we master are Indian, but my primary focus is to re-orient the traditional into the modern,” she explains. It is her prowess in creating showstoppers by repurposing old jewellery into wearable art that makes her stand out from other jewellery designers. Like, for instance, an antique nose ring turns into an exquisite neckpiece that you can easily carry off with panache with a shirt. Her eclectic eye brings in whimsical, edgy pieces and chic convertibles that create an elegant, classic, contemporary rhythm in your collection of usual baubles.

Designing precious gems seems to run in her DNA as Falguni not only comes from a jeweller family, but also married into one. This has given her deep insights into the mechanics of jewellery making too.

“Each piece of polki is differently shaped, and is special in its own way. The magical versatility of a polki necklace makes it traditional in technique and modish in design,” she adds. As an extension of her love for the fine arts, almost a decade ago, Falguni had even collaborated with renowned artist, Paresh Maity, and translated his vibrant art into jewel  forms, creating singular pieces of wearable art in the process.

“I believe jewellery needs to be worn every day, and not simply relegated to a vault,” she says. “In my latest collection, I have celebrated Russian emeralds, opulent rubies and tanzanites in a rich, riveting purple hue. The biggest challenge has always been in preserving the traditional appeal of every piece while giving it a modern complexion

Shilpi Madan for New Indian Express

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