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Peplum Power

The retro silhouette in the Peplum is creating a buzz. Shilpi Madan asks designers how they are incorporating it in their collections

Many celebrities in India and outside have flaunted the peplum look this year. Actor Priyanka Chopra wore a black peplum gown at a Bulgari event a few months ago. Actor and entrepreneur Shilpa Shetty was spotted in a p-corset. YouTuber Navya Naveli Nanda paired a peplum top with a flowy skirt. Hollywood star Emma Stone and Bollywood’s Alia Bhatt have also embraced the peplum style this season.


TRACING ROOTS


Peplum originates from the Greek word ‘peplos’. It refers to a tunic composed of a wraparound folded cloth, cinched midwaist. Greeks wore it in ancient times. Cut to 2024. Fashion designer Leena Singh of the Delhi-based label Ashima Leena is making blouses and teaming them with traditional saris. “This cut was popular in the Mughal era too,” she says, referring tolong flowing ensembles from the period.

The retro silhouette in the Peplum is creating a buzz. Shilpi Madan asks designers how they are incorporating it in their collections


IN VOGUE

UK fashion label J W Anderson and Scottish fashion designer Christopher
Kane featured the style in their fashion shows recently. Designer Tanvi Sethi of Torqadorn, Delhi, notes that a peplum top, dress , or jacket is a must-have this season. These pieces are quite versatile and go well with both the ethnic and Western look. “A constructed cut draws the eye to the waist. Embellishments, sheer fabrics, and sequins can accentuate the look further,” she says.


This season, designer Saaksha Bhat of Saaksha & Kinni, Mumbai, has opted for subtle flares and softer materials for a gentler look. “In the peplum cut, we are also experimenting with varied prints and solid colours,” she shares. She has also used mirror trims, thread work, and
metalwork with embroidered ‘doris’ to create peplum ensembles.
Pleats and gathers are the foundation of a peplum look. Tanvi notes that pleated chiffon and net fabrics are used to add flair to this cut.


“This season, we have tried new techniques such as fabric manipulation,
colour blocking and laser cuts. Our latest collection features this popular cut with box pleating, ruffles, and sequins. We have worked with lycra, tissue-silk blends, denim, nets, and satins,” she explains.

FABRIC PLAY

While slightly stiffer fabrics like silks, heavy georgettes, and heavy cotton are suited to make peplum outfits, Leena has also worked with crinkled chiffons…

Shilpi Madan for Sunday Herald

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